Jacket Sleeve Alterations

In order to accurately shorten jacket sleeves for a customer both arms need to be measured because more often than not there is a discrepancy. In the picture above I marked my measurement with a wax based chalk that disappears from heat. I then marked the line all the way around tapering up slightly on the underlap. Then I baste the line I drew with chalk so my line does not disappear when I press.

I pressed the basted line and stitched the facing back up in place. The lining was pressed up and stitched back in place too, resting 3/4” above the hemline.

The buttonholes are stitched on the industrial buttonhole machine and then the buttons are sewn on. The standard button amount is 4 but the jacket in the picture above is Tom Ford. Their signature detail features 5 buttonholes where the bottom buttonhole is longer than the rest.